Construction

*Area Before Clearing* This is where the structure was to be built.		*Pruning* A 'little' pruning needed to be done first.
*Supplies* Once the area was cleared supplies were brought in. (blocks, beams, plywood and roofing.).		*Sinking the Posts* The next step was to sink about 10 posts 2" into the ground. This usually involved chipping through limestone with a steel bar. Once a post was in and tacked in a completely vertical position, about 2 bags of concrete was poured and grave was added back in to secure them.
*Foundation and Block Parameter* A cement block parameter was then built by digging 6"-12" into the rocky ground and pouring a cement base in which the blocks were placed and mortared together.		*Blockhouse Construction* Hurricanes threaten the Florida Keys about once a year so we needed a hurricane resistant structure into which we can chase the birds. It may also be used for breeding.
*Pouring the roof* A 6" thick concrete slab roof was poured after framing it up like this. (It was built at a very slight angle to drain away from the house.) Most of the block walls were capped off underneath the top row. This allowed the concrete pour to fill in the first row of blocks at the top, providing extra support for the roof in high winds. A few blocks were left uncapped and steel reinforced, allowing the concrete to fill the walls. About 4000 lbs. of concrete was used here. It was mixed on top of the adjoining roof one bag at a time (very quickly) and shoveled down before it began to dry.		*Inside the Blockhouse* This is looking through rear window and into the blockhouse and aviary.
Building the frame With a little planning, each 4*6 in the frame could be hoisted into place and secured by just one person.		Frame from inside Looking up at the framing from the inside.
*Structure Frame* Here the framing is complete.		*Sanding the Frame* Here I'm crawling around on the gable above the orchid area. Everything had to be sanded dogwn before painting because the stain might not have stuck to unsanded CDX beams that were still slightly wet.
*Paint First* 2-3 coats of solid stain was hand painted on the frame before roofing was applied. (That was after a rust resistant primer sprayed onto all metal such as brackets and deck screws.) The structure may outlive us, but it was probably won't be painted again.		*Roof Installation* The first layer of roofing material (stucco/hardy board) is going up here. Then came 1/2" CDX treated plywood, fiber-reinforced roof sealant, 1/4" felt cloth, and then galvanized v-crimp steel. .
Fascia After the second layer of roofing was installed, CDX 2*4s were sanded, stained and secured to the edge of the roof overhang to align the ends and provide strength.		Metal Roof & Shadecloth Felt cloth and metal roofing were then laid over the aviary roof, and Shadecloth was stretched over the orchid house area. A lot of care was take to eliminate any lip where the shadecloth meets the metal roof so that leaves would not collect.
*Shadecloth* The shadecloth was fastened with nickel/copper staples to CDX slats along the aviary roofline that had been sanded, routed and stained. It was also glued to the concrete roof along the top of the house. This was to allow for drainage while keeping out insects.		*Slat Preparation* About 100 CDX slats were used to fasten both the screen and the 1/2" hardware cloth. They first had to have the corners of two edges rounded with a router. Because they were not quite dry, they were sanded with 50 grit before 2-3 coats of solid color stain was applied.
Screen Cutting The slats were cut to length and laid out on a 100" roll of Pfeiffer wire screen where sections were cut to the required width (plus about 6").		Predrill Slats for the screen needed to be secured to the frame with weather resistant deck screws every foot or so. The screw holes need to be predrilled. We chose to also counter sink them, drilling a larger hole for the screw heads about 1/2" into the wood. (It helps to drill the large hole when limiting its depth.)
*Screening* The screen was secured to the inside of the frame, next to the birds. Each piece of screen was first stapled to the top of the frame, from the middle working out without slack. Staples were about 1/2" to 3/4" from the edge so that when the slats were flush with the inside edge, they would cover the staples. After the top slat was secured, the bottom of the screen was stretched slightly and stapled in the same way. This allowed application of the bottom slat to stretch out the screen (just short of it ripping it on the staples) as it pulled the screen out another 1/2" or so.. (But it still didn't appear to be that tight until the sides were done.) The first side wasn't stretched, just pulled about 1/2 more from where it was naturally laying. The final side was stapled in such a way that the screen slack was taken away. It would then be pulled very tight, almost like a drum, when the final slat was applied, pulling the screen out that extra 1/2" - 3/4" from the staple to the edge. (You get the hang of it after doing it once.)		*Flush* The screen was secured flush with the inside of the aviary frame to reduce the birds' ability to perch on the edge and poop down the screen or on the frame. (After 8 weeks, so far so good)
Caulking All cracks and spaces where insects could penetrate were filled with a top quality silicone caulk Screw holes were filled with drywall putty and touched up with a single coat of solid stain. The excess screen was then trimmed away with razor blades..		Painting Hardware Cloth Galvanized 1/2" hardware cloth was fastened to the outside of the slats to protect the screen on the inside from predators or flying objects. We decided to apply a coat of acrylic paint first with a roller, primarily for aesthetics, but also to inhibit oxidation.
*Attaching 1/2" Hardware Cloth* The painted hardware cloth was then attached to exterior of the aviary on the slats. It was first measured and cut, and then attached to the top with nickel/copper staples. Small holes were predrilled, and stainless 1.5" screws with capped rubber bushings (designed for metal roofs) were used to secure the hardware cloth in place every foot or so.		*Stucco* Two coats of stucco (scratch and finish) were then applied to the inside and outside of both the blockhouse and the block parameter. The limestone gravel floor was then leveled, and plants, perches, feeders, drinkers and nests were hung.
*Finished* The wall was torn down separating our screened patio from the orchid area, and the boss here gives a thumbs up, signaling that it meets with her approval and it's time to haul in the damn birds! There's no way this could have been build without my beautiful wife Pech working so hard to fund the construction and support us while I assembled it.		*Tenants* The birds were then treated for mites, and their cages were stacked and opened in the blockhouse. This is Pech upon learning that she'd also be staying in the aviary with the birds…

Foundation - Cement block are around the parameter on top of a concrete footing that's trenched about 6" below ground.

Blockhouse - Constructed of cement blocks with a 6" reinforced cement slab roof.

Frame - Built from 4*6 CDX (pressure treated) wood posts sunk about 2" into the ground. Much of the horizontal framing is 4*6's as well for greater stability in high winds.

Walls - Insect screening on the inside (next to the birds) plus an exterior 1/2" hardware cloth for additional protection on the exterior walls..

Ceiling - Composed of 4 layers, From the bottom up,1) stucco textured Hardy Board, 2) 1/2" CDX plywood, 3) 30# asphalt felt cloth, and 4) V-crimp galvanized steel roof panels. The orchid area will be covered by 45% shade cloth.

Fasteners - 4" Tapcons for securing to cement, and 4" Deck screws and galvanized plates for securing framing. (other sizes as appropriate.) Nickle/copper staples were used for securing the shadecloth.